Wakuden’s history begins in Kyo Tango, in northern Kyoto prefecture. Here peaceful villages dot the mountainside overlooking the Sea of Japan. This area was described in The Nihon Shoki* (The Chronicles of Japan), and was revered for its production of artisan silk crepe, known as Tango Chirimen.
*The second oldest classical Japanese history book, completed in 720.
Our founder, Denemon Wakuya, was originally a shipping agent in Fukui prefecture. He moved to Kyo Tango to serve as the fief of Mineyama, and built an inn in the bustling trade town of Kyo Tango in 1870. This wooden three-story inn was quite novel for the time.
The name Wakuden <和久傳> comes from Denemon Wakuya <和久屋傳右ヱ門> and his wife Kyu <久>. The three characters comprising the name “Wakuden” represent our will to provide peace and tranquility for generations to come. We remain firmly established in our hometown, thanks in part to its people. It was locals who helped us completely rebuild after the devastating 1927 Kita Tango earthquake, and our desire is to contribute to the continued prosperity of this town.
The restoration after the earthquake was led by the second generation, who singlehandedly designed the structure of the new three-story inn. He pioneered modern features such as in-house generators for lighting and refrigeration. And alongside the structural updates, he invited a Kyoto chef to contemporize the menu. Fresh Taiza crab caught daily in Tango were charcoal-grilled in our hearth, presented in stunning tatami dining rooms. Gourmands from Kyoto flocked to Wakuden for this unique dining and lodging experience.
The silk industry had been ebbing, and we sought a new path for Wakuden. In 1982, we moved to Kodaiji, Kyoto, and opened ryotei* Wakuden. We happened upon an impeccable sukiya** house built by the famous craftsman, Sotoji Nakamura. The sukiya house was originally owned by the head of Onoe-ryu kabuki theatre, and had been expertly maintained by the craftsman. And here we happily began our new chapter.
*Japanese restaurants of the highest quality.
**Architecture based on tea house aesthetics.
Taiza crab are exclusively caught in the sea near Tango are the signature ingredient at Wakuden. This rare snow crab is only caught by five fisheries using small day boats. At the fish auction, they are divided into 50 different quality classifications. The catch is largely influenced by the weather and not everyone can get the best; we only use the very highest quality.
We grow our own rice in Kyo Tango using discarded crab shells to fertilize the rice paddies. In May, we obtain sprouted Koshihikari, the most popular variety of rice, as well as Isehikari, the variety grown at Ise Shrine. The rice is harvested in September entirely by hand, which is part of our devotion to our cuisine. Farmers in Kumihama, Kyo Tango have helped us gain the knowledge to do so. In 2005 we began farming without pesticides or chemical fertilizers. And in 2015 we began production of our own sake made from our Isehikari rice.
Smooth and springy with a clean aftertaste, our signature sweet, Seiko, is made with powdered lotus root and Japanese sugar. Beloved as our dessert course, it also became a popular gift. Produced in Kumihama, Kyo Tango, we opt to use some non-mechanized procedures, such as wrapping each piece with a fresh bamboo leaf by hand. We believe it is our obligation to maintain the high quality, tradition and craft of our ryotei.
Historically, sansho was used medicinally in addition to the culinary applications still used today. Young, tender leaves are harvested in spring, while flowers and peppercorns are gathered in early summer. We showcase this herb in dishes such as Sansho Flower and Wagyu Hot Pot, and Sansho Chirimen, one of our signature dishes. We have also recently started growing our own sansho in Kyo Tango.
Kyo Tango once thrived as a center for silk crepe production, and thus had a plentitude of mulberry orchards for growing silk worms. We make mulberry leaf tea and work closely with a local silk producer who devotes himself to restoring these orchards. The nutrient-dense leaves, used in Chinese medicine, produce a clear, mild tea. We are proud to support the preservation of this local tree, the soul of our town.
Through our food gift production facility in Kumihama, we met Dr. Akira Miyawaki of Plant Ecology. Dr. Miyawaki has studied the tree groves surrounding ancient shrines and has helped to restore indigenous forests at over 600 locations throughout Japan. With his mentorship, we resolved to establish our own version of these village shrine groves to contribute to the local ecosystem. We planted 20,000 trees on our land with the help of 1,600 local residents. And after ten years, the twittering of birds has returned with the thriving green trees.
We have received so much help along our path, and we strive to reciprocate this generosity. Wakuden has dedicated itself to providing cultural educational opportunities for its employees such as tea ceremony and Japanese flower arrangement classes. We have also provided opportunities for children to study the teachings of Confucius through Rongo Juku. In the spirit of cross-cultural sharing, we hold tea ceremonies in countries such as Italy, Switzerland, the United States of America, and France. We reach out to chefs and wineries around the world to contribute a fresh, objective look at our cuisine.